“I’ve been offered a trip to Provence” said Doug ….”but I can’t go”, given he and Cara’s 3^rd child was due only days before the start of the trip, it seemed only right!

Gard Viognier and Merlot on the estate. After a quick tour of the vineyards and his winery we got down to the serious business of tasting.

The 2007 Viognier had just been bottled the Thursday before we arrived. It was tasting as fresh as a daisy, with a nose of rich, full apricot and peach fruit. The palate was slightly leaner with more lifted, floral character in addition to good ripe fruit and a nice spice to the finish.

The 2006 Viognier was still tasting good, though perhaps slightly lighter in style, with more citrus and cream character.

The 2007 Merlot had a nose of ripe plum and freshly baked blueberry muffin. The palate was packed with warm, ripe berry fruit with a hint of fresh mint and soft spice.

Patrick’s wines are fruit forward and easy drinking, they are also particularly good value. It was the 2007 Viognier that stole the show for me.

In the late afternoon we set off for an hours drive to our hotel in Balaruc, and a quick turn around before heading out to Pinet.

Pinet is a tiny appellation in the commune of Herault, given official recognition only relatively recently in 1985, for the wonderful and unique Picpoul de Pinet wines made here.

We went to visit Cave de l’Ormarine – a co-op of 150 of the region’s growers, headed by chief winemaker Cyril Payon.

Lots of the growers and winery team were there to meet us. We split up into small groups and headed out in a convoy of cars for a tour of Pinet’s vineyard area.

Although their AOC status is quite new, the vineyards at Pinet date back to Roman times.

Pinet is only 6 miles inland from the coast, and the south facing vines grow at just 40m above sea level on a chalky clay plateaux, rich in limestone and quartz gravel chippings.

The vineyards lie to the North of Lake Thau and slope towards it.

The proximity of the lake and the Mediterranean help to limit the daily changes in temperature and so aids the ripening of the grapes.

The grape variety responsible for the wonderful white wine made here is Picpoul (or Piquepoul). Piquepoul means ‘lip-stinger’ which eludes to the grape’s naturally high acidity!

At dusk we returned to the beautiful 1920’s, art deco winery for a quick look round and a tasting of their Picpoul.

Cave del’Ormarine is an multi-award winning producer of Picpoul (7 medals at the Concours General Agricole de Paris – more than any other Picpoul producer).

They make three different levels of Picpoul de Pinet AOC, all bottled in the traditional embossed fluted green glass bottle of the Appellation.

Picpoul de Pinet is a very fresh, light and almost spritzy style of wine, which is a perfect match for the seafood of the region. It has similarities to the Muscadet of the Loire.

First we tasted Ormarine’s entry level ‘Carte Noir’ bottling - a very fresh and aromatic wine, with pear and green apple flavours and a pithy grip.

The next level was the fabulous ‘Duc de Mornay’ - a slightly fuller style, with floral aromatics, the freshest of fruit, a slightly salty tang and a beautiful sandy textured petilance.

Their top cuvee was the ‘Prestige’, again fuller, but this time without the fresh petilance that I’d liked so much, an altogether smoother texture with subtle herby flavour and great length.

Whilst we’d been tasting with Cyril – a fabulously funny and eccentric character; the rest of the Ormarine team had been tending a huge fire which they’d lit in the winery’s courtyard.

After the tasting we were definitely ready to eat!

The team had set out a long bench by the side of fire, loaded with huge plates of freshly shucked oysters, bread and innumerable bottles of their delicious Picpoul de Pinet, they cooked huge trays of local mussels in tomato broth on the open fire.

We feasted and drank and warmed ourselves by the embers.It was a truly memorable evening, they guys from Cave de l’Ormarine were tremendous fun and looked after us royally!

DAY 2

After a quick breakfast we packed up and headed off on a 3 hour drive to Bandol – the most important wine appellation of Provence, and a beautiful, picture postcard, seaside resort in its own right.

We arrived at an idyllic little restaurant ‘Lou Pescadou’on the outskirts of Bandol town and right on the sea shore.

We were here for a tasting and lunch with Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles.

Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles is owned by the wonderful Madam Jouve, her small 10 ha estate in AC Bandol; is run by Jean-Marie Castell and his son Julian. The estate nestles in and is protected by the hills of the Cadiere d’Azur, and benefits from a maritime climate. The estate works organically and the yields are kept extremely low.

The Domaine Lafran Veyrolles Bandol Rosé 2007 was lovely. Made from 70% Mourvedre it had a warm, peachy nose, with orange and lemon fruit flavours on the palate and a pleasing persistent spice. It went wonderfully well with the Boullibasse we were having for lunch!

The Rose was certainly good, but it was their Bandol Rouge which really grabbed my attention. In fact their Rose is actually drawn off this cuvee before it starts to ferment.

The Domaine Lafran Veyrolles Bandol Rouge 2005 was packed with lovely ripe damson fruit, warm spice, and a slightly leathery, earthy, character. The finish was long and the tannins supple – not too big or aggressive. This was Mourvedre as it is meant to be!

We were reluctant to leave such an idyllic setting, but our next appointment was pressing. We piled in the cars again for a 40-minute drive to Domaine de Rimauresq, near the town of Toulon.

Domaine de Rimauresque Cru Classe is a highly-reputed estate, situated on the Cotes du Provence. It was one of a small number of estates awarded ‘Cru Classe’ status when the classification system for the region was drawn up in 1955. The estate is owned by the Wemyss family - who also have a stake in Fonty's Pool in Western Australia, but it is run by the manager and winemaker: Pierre Duffort, who showed us round when we were there.

The estate encompasses 46 hectares of prime vineyards with an average vine age of 40 years (the oldest being planted in 1930). Sighted on the infertile sandy, gravely soils of the foothills of the Maures Massif, the vines are protected by the sheltering effects of the mountain from the harsh Mediterranean sun. the vineyards therefore have a comparatively cool microclimate, and this allows a longer ripening period and better fruit development.

Domaine de Rimauresq produces characterful whites produced from Rolle (also known as Vermentino - very dependable in the vineyards’ acid terroir); floral scented roses from a blend of Cinsault, Tribouren and Mourvèdre and weighty, yet elegant reds produced from mainly Cabernet Sauvignon(an unusual grape for the area), with Carignan, Syrah and Mourvedre.

The Domaine de Rimauresq Cotes de Provence Cru Classe Blanc 2007 was a real eye opener – delicate and elegant with pine-like, herbal and floral scents. Really fragrant palate with lemon curd character and a soft, creamy texture.

The Domaine de Rimauresq Côtes de Provence Cru Classe Rosé 2007 had wonderful fresh and lifted strawberry and nectarine fruit flavour with a hint of crumble spices.

The ‘R’ Rimauresq Rose 2007 was a real step up. A more serious and food friendly rose with a concentration and weight due to the 70 year old vines Rimauresq use to produce these 'R' wines. One of the best Provence roses I’ve tasted - lifted floral and redcurrant aromas with delicate red fruit, and garrigue herb character on the palate. Some grip and a hint of tannin from prolonged skin contact, and a lovely persistent spice to the long finish.

Onto the reds and the Domaine de Rimauresq, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé Rouge 2005 is ripe and full. The wine is Bordeaux meets Provence with the poised blackcurrant fruit of Cabernet Sauvignon definitely at the fore and lovely warm dried herb and spice flavours in the background.

The ‘R’ Rimauresq Rouge 2005, made from the domaine’s Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, is again another step up. Immensely concentrated black fruits carry the extra 18 months oak ageing superbly well, giving a rich and silky mouthfeel with fine grained tannins and long, long length. Nuances of garrigue and minerality make this a supremely classy wine.

I was thoroughly impressed by Domaine Rimauresq, I loved every wine that was presented to us. It would have been wonderful to take some time to wander through the perfectly tended vineyards, marvel at the beauty of the estate and its grand old house and grounds….but there was more to do.

So it was back in the cars and off to Chateau La Moutete – an estate owned by Pierre Duffort’s family,and where Pierre, his wife and children live. But it is his brother, Olivier, who took over from their father, and is now the winemaker here.

The Château's 25 hectares of vineyards are spread over several plots of land in the 'Triangle d'Or' or Golden Triangle covering an area from the commune of Cuers to the commune of Puget-Ville, just north-east of Toulon. The house was formerly a convent.

Vines have been grown on the land for the last 100 years. The vineyards are planted on deep, well drained gravel and red sandstone soil, which has an almost neutral pH and a south west exposure. Hot days and cool nights help to prolong ripening. There are parcels of old vine Cinsault and Carignan (averaging 60 years old), and Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah and some Rolle (Vermentino).

When Olivier Duffort took over the winemaking reins in 2004 his first decision was to invest in a large tubular affair to cool the must pre-fermentation, allowing him to make a finer and more precise Rosé. In addition all harmful chemical treatments and products have been banned.

We tasted the Château la Moutète Côtes de Provence Grande Réserve Rosé 2007, made from Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah and a little Vermentino. Light salmon pink in colour with gentle floral aromas, hints of nectarine, and redcurrant. Quite full in the mouth without being obviously fruity. Aromatic and fresh with subtle acidity and crispness.

The Château La Mouète Côtes de Provence Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2005 was a dense and brooding red made from Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with complex flavours of red fruits, leather and tobacco.

Quite spent after a hard days tasting, as the evening drew in we set off to our hotel ‘Les Voiliers’ – a yacht club overlooking the marina in Hyeres. A real ‘Riviera’ setting!

That night we dined in the restaurant within the hotel in the company of Pierre and his jaw droppingly beautiful wife – Carla Bruni you’ve got competition; all the men present went quite to mush!

DAY 3

The next morning we were off to visit Domaine de la Vieille Tour – literally down the road from Chateau La Moutete, and still within the prized Triangle d’Or (golden triangle) of Provence between Pierrefeu, Cuers and Puget-Ville.

The ‘Vieille Tour’ or old tower, which you just make out in this photo, dates from 1755, and was the 18 ^th century equivalent of the local post office – housing the messenger pigeons which carried the ‘mail’ of the time.

The owner, grape-grower and wine-maker here is Jean-Louis Baudino, and the estate has belonged to his family for four generations.

M. Baudino makes a fantastic Cotes de Provence Rose made from 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault and 20% Syrah. The vines used have an average age of 40 years, and he is very proud to have “the oldest vines in the village”on his estate.

The terroir at Vieille Tour has a rich clay subsoil, which is vital for retaining moisture to feed the vines between the dry months from May to September. The soil also has a very rocky sandstone top layer.

M. Baudino told us how he employs a kind of crop rotation system when replanting bocks in his vineyard. He allows the ground to rest for 5 years and grow wild after he takes out the old vines – he believes its good for the health of the soil.

Unusually for the area, all his vines are hand-picked. In fact it is descendants of the same family of grape pickers who come back every year for the harvest.

After a tour of the vineyards we headed back to the winery. M. Baudino was keen to show us the improvements he had made over the past year. He has built a mezzanine level into the winery so the juice is now gravity fed. He has also bought refrigeration equipment to enable him to cool the macerating juice before fermentation. It was really interesting to be able to taste the difference the new equipment has made to the style of rose he produces.

First we tasted the Domaine de la Vieille Tour Cote de Provence Rose 2007, his newest release, and made using a temperature controlled maceration. It was very fresh with an almost sherbety spritz, lovely vivid varietal soft red fruit Grenache flavours and a slightly floral lift.

The Cote de Provence Rose 2006, made pre- refridgerated maceration was, by comparison, a richer, rouder affair, with ripe orange and nectarine fruit coming through as well as strawberry flavour and spice to the finish.

Oddly enough, I preferred the latter, probably just because it was just a bit different and unusual, but I don’t think I was meant to! I could see why M. Baudino was keen to make these changes in his winery though; it had definitely resulted in a cleaner, fresher style of rose – and one undoubtedly more suited to modern tastes.

After just a couple of hours spent at Vieille Tour, already it was time for lunch!

The restaurant:‘La Bastide des Magnans’, on the outskirts of Vidauban town was breathtakingly beautiful with a gorgeous tree shaded courtyard and minimal, rustic provincial décor. The food was amazing and the service impeccable. What a treat!

After lunch it was a scenic hour and a half drive to Nice.

We had a plane to catch – we were off to Corsica, the ‘Island of Beauty’ as the French call it. It is a French owned Island, of course, but theres a real Italian influence too.

The plane was tiny by normal standards, but the journey was short and sweet.

We touched down in Ajaccio in the early evening and headed off through some seriously hilly and tightly winding roads towards Propriano – further south-west of the island.

The drive had made me feel really quite queasy, but it was our last night together, so we all set off to paint the small town of Propriano red. It’s amazing what a couple of Pastis and water can do to settle the stomach!

We found an amazing little restaurant on the main street, and had another fantastic and huge meal, accompanied by many different bottles of Corsican wine, before stumbling back to the hotel for some well needed rest!

DAY 4

We were off to our last visit on our whistle stop tour. Just 15 minutes inland from Propriano, up in the hills and next to the Rizzanesse river, is Domaine Fiumicicoli.

Domaine Fiumicicoli lies at the heart of AOC Corse Sartène, considered to be one of the best of Corsica's nine appellations

Temperatures are slightly cooler in this mountainous South-West corner of the Island, and proximity to the sea adds a further cooling influence.

The Domaine’s vineyards rise up from the slopes of the river on sandy / granitic soil ideally suited to growing the traditional Corsican grape varieties of Sciacarello (from which the Domaine makes their roses), Vermentino (from which they make their whites), and Niellucciu (from which they make their reds, usually blended with a little Syrah).

The 75 hectare estate was founded by Felix Andreani, and is now mostly run by his son Simon, who showed us around.

He explained that the Domaine is run using organic principles, although they are currently un-certified, and that the cooling, drying winds that blow through the vineyards, enable them to farm without resorting to herbicides and pesticides.

It was wonderful to stroll through the vineyards, they seemed really well tended and the scenery was magnificent.

Then we headed for a tour of their impressive, modern winery and on into the tasting room.

First up was the Domaine Fiumicicoli Corse Satene Rose 2007. A much softer and riper affair than the Provence roses we’d been tasting. Flavours of peach and possibly mango, aswell as fragrant red fruit, with a lovely smooth texture. Gorgeous!

The Domaine Fiumicicoli Corse Sartene White 2007 was, in contrast, much leaner and tighter than the 100% Rolle/Vermentino we’d tasted at Rimauresq. The Fiumicicoli had very clean, spritzy lemongrass and green apple character with mineral and violet hints.

Simon allowed us to taste the same wine, but aged, from the 2001 vintage. It was amazing! It reminded me of an old Verdicchio I’d had in Italy. Lots of sweet and sour lime, grapefruit and even durian flavours, with a hint of almond brittle to the palate and great length.

The Domaine Fiumicicoli Corse Sartene Red 2006 was also really interesting, although made with no oak influence at all it still managed to show bonfire and spice and undergrowth nuances to its wonderful deep dark cherry and bramble fruit. Simon told us that the Niellucciu grape variety used for this wine is thought to be what the Italians would call Sangiovese.

After the tasting Simon whisked us off to a beautiful restaurant set right up in the hills, with spectacular views. It was time for one last exquisite blow-out meal, before we began the long chain of flights home.

Thanks to Cara and Doug, who offered me the trip: Shane – who held the fort: all the other people who travelled with me – couldn’t have asked for a nicer bunch: and all the winemakers who entertained us, for such wonderful hospitality, and wines with a real sense of place.

We already have the Picpoul de Pinet and the Rimauresq Rose in stock at the shop – 2 of my ‘must-haves’ from the trip, so pop down and try them for yourselves!